There are several different types of PVC bows that can be made using heat, minimal heat, or no heat. The example I will be using here is a recurve bow, using heat, that has an approximate draw weight of 35 pounds. You can change the draw weight by changing the length or diameter of the PVC pipe you choose. I have built bows with a draw weight of up to 70lbs, and I have seen others that have made bows with a pull exceeding 100lbs. There are variations of this bow. It can be made as a take-down bow, or it may be made with fiberglass or PVC reinforcements for which there are multiple tutorials on youtube. This particular bow is simple and effective, and it works well for adults and youths alike.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS:
1 piece Schedule 40 PVC pipe 3/4” diameter and 48” length (They are usually sold in 10 foot lengths.)
1 4-foot length 1”x 4” or 2”x 4” board (I started with 1”x 4” but now prefer 2”x 4”)
1 approximately 6” diameter cylindrical object, like a cooking pot (for forming the recurves)
A pot holder or work gloves
Cordage or string (I like using paracord or several strands of artificial sinew tied in a continuous loop.)
A file or saw for making notches in the PVC pipe to receive the bow string and rounding off edges (You may also want sandpaper for a finer finish and to help the paint adhere to the pipe better.)
Paint is optional as well, but it sure finishes it nicely. Krylon fusion colors seem to maintain their integrity the best, however I also use Rustoleum Camo ultra flat colors with a clear coat finish. The design possibilities are endless and can fit whatever application you’re looking for. Whether it be a brightly colored “emergency” survival bow or a woodland or digital camouflage or a simple black bow, you can create it for your specific needs. (This is just one of the reasons making these bows out of PVC is so extraordinary.)
STEPS:
You are going to build a jig with the 1” or 2” x 4” and the little blocks you have pre-cut to 1” x 3/4”. This jig will only be usable for 3/4” or 1” schedule 40 PVC pipe. I use an adjustable jig now to fit various pipe sizes but started with the jig I’m describing for this project because it was the cheapest way to go. For an adjustable jig, check out BackyardBowyer’s channel on youtube.
Attach the two blocks at one end of the board, in the corners, with the 3/4” thickness setting the depth for the pipe to slide between the jig board (being the top surface) and a ground surface (whether that be a work table, bench, or a flat, hard surfaced floor. So it will look similar to a ramp with 3/4” space at the “open” end.