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PVC Survival Gear: How to Make It – Part 3, by J.H.
As with the PVC bow, there are several different types of PVC quivers that can be made. A really simple, no heat version is as easy as taking 2” diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe that is 18” in length and filling the bottom 1/4 of the pipe with Great Stuff or another spray foam. This easy quiver can be fashioned to receive a belt, can be set on the ground for target shooting, or modified however you would like to attach it to yourself or your gear. Poke your arrows into the foam or drill holes in the foam to receive the arrows. You may also want to drill small drainage holes through the foam.
The quiver project I am giving the instructions for is slightly more complicated, uses heat, and has a bit more to it in design and structure. It will be more of a modern hunter’s quiver with a touch of old world design. It may be worn sling style, back pack style, on a belt, sideways on a belt, attached to a pack, or set on the ground. It is stylish, light weight, and effective, and it keeps arrows from making noise by securing each arrow individually. I hope you enjoy this design, which came about from a number of trials until I found what I liked the best and what worked the most efficiently.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS:
- 2” Diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe cut to 18” length
- 2” Diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe flat bottomed cap (glue on)
- PVC cement
- Heat source
- Marker
- Ruler or tape measure
- 1” x 6” or 2” x 6” board at least 14” length (for heat flattening)
- Drill or tool for making 1/16” and 1/4” holes in PVC
- An opened end hand saw (tile, ceramic, hack saw or other like variety)
- A rasp or file
- Soft foam rubber (solid circle shape, 2” diameter, at least 1/2” thick)
- Velcro Strip (soft/loop side, at least 1”w x 8” long)
- Glue (I prefer hot glue)
- Sand paper
- Paint of your choice (optional)
STEPS:
- Choose which end of the pipe will be the bottom. Test fit the cap, and draw a line with a marker on the pipe where the edge of the cap meets the pipe. Remove the cap. Use PVC cement around the (outside) bottom end of the pipe, from the edge to the line you marked. Now, use the PVC cement on the cap (inside), covering it completely but not thick. Make sure to apply the cement fairly quickly, as it is fast drying. Place the cap on the pipe, and push the two pieces together so that there is a nice, snug fit. Let it dry a few minutes.
- Heat the pipe from the top to about 2/3 of the way down and around the entire diameter until the pipe is soft and malleable. Be sure not to overheat the pipe, as it may burn and weaken the PVC. When the pipe is thoroughly heated, lay it on a flat, hard surface and use the board to apply even pressure to the pipe.
Source: http://survivalblog.com/pvc-survival-gear-how-to-make-it-part-3-by-j-h/
